Bajau Laut at Sibuan Island Sabah19 March 2011

Saturday morning.

Sipadan dot com charges RM350 for a  boat trip to Sibuan Island. When I checked Dive with Uncle Chang, it is more expensive. At Dragon Inn, we were approached by its gardener, Karim 012 819 2684 for an island trip at RM250. After checking on the boat, we agreed to take the offer. The boat belongs to AL 012 811 5804, a polite and humble chap who is also the driver.  

AL brought us to the Semporna tourist jetty to register before we can head to Sibuan Island. Each pax is RM2. We also need to apply a permit to enter Sibuan which costs RM10.

AL's boat. Life jackets are provided.

It is a 15minutes journey by speed boat (double engine) to Sibuan Island. En was excited when the boat approached the island and jumped straight into the water once it stopped.

Dad and AL showed the permit to the army officer (in red).

Shortly after that, we were approached by a group of Bajau Laut people, tried to sell us some conch shells. We learnt from AL that, they used to live on boats but have moved to the land. When the source of food is depleted, they will move to another island. 

The lady in batik, said "RM5 satu. Beli dua RM10" (one for RM5, buy two is RM10)  

I bargained with RM5, 2 conch shells. Looking at the huge shells available freely from the beach, I was comtemplating of not buying. On second thought, I felt that it would be nice gesture to buy it since we are 'intruding' on the island where their homes are. I bargained with RM5, 2 conch shells. She agreed easily.

Sibuan Island is a tiny island, locally known as battleship island due to its shape. It takes about 20minutes to recce the whole island. The huts in front of the coconut trees are where the bajau laut people live. At the end of island, there is an army guard post.

This Bajau Laut boy persuaded us to buy a coconut for RM5. We said "RM2". He agreed. Later on, we found out he has to climb the tall coconut tree and risked falling down. We paid him RM5 per coconut.  

Another two Bajau children and a lady observed En who was drawing.

Their simple homes made out of leaves and woods.

The spectacular view opposite the Bajau Laut people homes.

When the lady in batik saw me walking by, she invited me to their homes. The little girl is her sister in law. The bajau laut doesn't know how to read or write. They live in much poverty. This lady in batik (I forgot her long name), talked to me a lot. She spoke in Malay "All bajau people is poor. To travel to Semporna with their boat, without engine took 5-6 hours. We can't afford an engine boat. I ever thought of selling coconut to the tourist but climbing the tall trees are dangerous." 

This house is considered the biggest one over there.

The door is a piece of cloth.

Side view of the homes - smaller unit.

One granny lives on the boat! The strip of mollusc which hung horizontally, is a staple food of the Bajau Laut.

Children played under the shade, with the bunch of coins we just gave them.

The interior of a home. There aren't much things in it. Can I live a life of such simplicity?

Cooking something that looked like a sea cucumber!

The mollusc were hung horizontally for drying. The Bajau Laut people pick them from the sea and fry them with vegetables. The lady in batik said "Sedap" while showing her thumb up.  They also eat rice and sweet potato.

We found lots of bi-valve gigantic clam (I am not sure if it's called clam),opening and closing its shell!

Crystal clear water and very low tide to explore.

These children were on the quest of finding the edible mollusc.

Three of them walked back home. The first two taking turn to hold the youngest child's hand. I passed my only possession that I can share, my pink hair tie to the first girl. She grinned happily, exposing her yellow teeth and wore it on her wrist.

I leave the island with a heavy heart. The lady in batik waved to me endlessly. I wonder what will happen to them. If I do go again,  I must bring some colours, papers, books and other necessity for them.

Leaving Sibuan Island.

We passed by such huge seaweed farm, in the vast sea. The lines of floating bottles are where the seaweed twirl around and grow. When a line is lifted up, you can see seaweed.

 Rain cloud ahead of us.

Our boat swerved to the left and skipped the rain.  

Huge shells from Sibuan. Spider conch can be easily found over there.

Bajau Laut @Mabul Island, Sabah 18 March 2011

There is a group of Bajau Laut people (who live on boats), in front of Mabul backpacker. It blow one's mind, knowing the fact that, there is still people living under this condition. Interestingly, we observed them throughout the duration of our stay.

The kids row the boat to the back of Mabul backpacker where the kitchen is located.

They waited on the boat, in hope of getting some food.

There is one family, where the father works at the resort next to Mabul backpacker.  After having breakfast on boat, the father will row the boat to the resort and alight at the beach. Thereafter, the mother will row the boat back.

The mother rowed the boat back to the same location while a naked child looked on. Another child slept on the tent and a teenage girl was seen applying white powder all over her face. This particular boat lives a family of 5 !! And it is not considered the largest number of people per boat, as we heard, there are up to 4 families live in one boat too.

During lunchtime @1230pm, the mother will pick up the father, then row the boat back and have lunch on the boat. In the evening, the same routine occur again, where the mother picks the father up from work.

There was a group of 4 little kids who would 'walk' from their homes (boats) to the sandy area right under Mabul backpacker workers squatters. Did you see the tiny balled-up thingy where the first kid is holding above the water? That thingy is actually a plastic-bag containing children clothes. They crossed the sea, naked and put on the clothes once they arrived the shore. :)) They did that two days in a row !

 

Here they were, playing under the wooden stilt house. The background song was sung by Mabul backpacker Philipino chef, Jojo. He plays a guitar and sings charmingly during his rest period.

At low tide, the Bajau Laut waded the sea in search of edible seaweed.

Edible seaweed.

A Bajau Laut boy.

The Bajau Laut man rowed to Mabul backpacker, trying to sell all his fishes for RM30!

The mother moved the boat with a long stick. It was lunchtime and she picked up her hubby whom I mentioned above, home for lunch. She cooked on the boat. We could see small fire lit up, at 6am. The youngest kid sat at the edge, without wearing clothes. S

The father rowed the boat home.

Bajau Suluk @Kampung Mabul, Mabul Island. 16 March 2011

Wednesday evening.

We took a stroll at Kampung Mabul, and the boy who works for Mabul backpacker as boat assistant, happily brought us around. "Saya tinggal disini", so he said. (I live here, pointing to the first home). He earns a mere RM300 per month.

 

There is only one school at Mabul Island and it is a primary school. The nearest secondary school is at Semporna, which is 45minutes away by speed boat. Most of them, do not enter secondary school due to poverty.

The condition of most wooden homes of Bajau Suluk people is shabby. As we walked around, the people seems cheerful and unperturbed by our presence.

Front porch of a home.

There are only two small shops and this is one of them. The business is run from home.

This naked boy has lots of mucus dangling from nose and with stained mouth. :(

A mother washed clothes the traditional way, with a basin and scrubbing board. She smiled to me while I took the shot.

A granny cooked with charcoal and wood.

The children created a game out of broken pencil, toothpaste cap, bottle caps and some other junks.

Kampung Palembang,Semporna Sabah 15 March 2011

Tuesday evening

We can see boats or hear the noisy speed boat engines to and fro Semporna jetty and the opposite water villages early morning from Dragon Inn. I decided to take a walk to the public jetty, hoping to hop on one and travel to the nearest village, experiencing the local people mode of transport.

The public boat fetch local bajau to the water village vs Semporna jetty. It will move once there are mininum of 12 passengers and the fee is RM1 per person.  

When we arrived at the jetty, some boat drivers approached us for island hopping, for a fee of RM250 - RM350. I said "I like to take the public boat to the Palembang."   Then he offered RM35 to and fro, without having to wait for the public boat that needs at least 12 passengers.

The jetty of Kampung Palembang, after a 10 minutes boat ride across Celebes Sea.

The area after the jetty where we could see the residents mingle in a close-knit community.

Wooden shaky bridge connecting to the stilt houses.

This bridge is in a better condition.

The kids at Kampung Palembang, Semporna are playing the same games we played in school @Peninsular Malaysia!

When EnHui saw the geese, they chased after them.